27/02/2026
writes:
“The last couple of days, since leaving La Paz, have been a bit of a mixed bag. Wondering whether the floodwaters have receded, racing the rain clouds, the debate between Kalapurkha & Calapucra, bumping into a little India run by Mary, whose daughter Vanessa runs a Kathak & Bhangra academy, walking around Potosí on a car-free Sunday watching skateboarders and wheeled tobogganists, the imposing Cerro Rico, some sketchy sections on the way to Uyuni, and finally the smiling, very knowledgeable and helpful Bismarck, who runs the lovely, lovely Llama Cafe that does good coffee and very good plant-based food! Did I say llama?”
Samrat Som once led the apparel and accessories business at Royal Enfield, where he reimagined what it meant to belong to a motorcycle brand. Somewhere between shaping the story of motorcycling for others and taking longer rides of his own, a thought began to grow.
The dream had been there since 2005 — sparked by a weathered copy of Prisoners of the Sun, which first carried him to Peru, the Incas and Machu Picchu. And on December 11, 2023, Samrat landed in Bolivia — and the three-month journey began.
The complete article awaits. Link in bio.