11/04/2022
Costume Jewelry: Junk or Treasure?
I recently did an extensive appraisal for an estate. Among the items to be appraised was a large bag of costume jewelry, which I handed back to the daughter.
She was surprised that so much she thought was real was costume. She said, "I do not want this bag, and I don't wear costume jewelry. Toss it out for me."
At that moment, I felt I should try to explain costume jewelry; she might change her mind.
She might be surprised that there is value in some of the items she owned. It might take some research, but I did not feel that these pieces were something she should toss out as junk.
After 37 years in the jewelry industry and as an appraiser, I cannot tell you how much costume jewelry I have seen. Some of the pieces are just stunning.
My client asked if I could explain the costume jewelry types and why some are more valuable than others. What kind of stones were used, and what is the difference in the metals used? Why do the metals look so real? Who were the designers of costume jewelry?
It is our self-expression for which we wear our collectibles filled with such craftsmanship and artistry. Costume jewelry can make a bold statement, colorful, whimsical, or dramatic.
When you look at a piece of costume jewelry, many contain different materials, such as plastic, glass, rhinestones, crystals, ceramic, faux gemstones, and pearls, large or tiny seed pearls, even items made from wood.
Global Interest
For years you could pick up these treasures at weekend garage sales, swap meets, or an antique mall. Today there are hundreds of collectors throughout the country using the internet highway.
The internet has opened the door for collectors all over the country. There are costume jewelry organizations and clubs; it has become an open-door worldwide. Members of these groups buy, share, sell, and trade their jewelry collectibles.
Costume jewelry does not have the same intrinsic value as fine jewelry, but it does have history, and much can be learned.
Eye-Catching Artistry
The artistry and manufacturing of costume jewelry can be breathtaking. New or old, these costume pieces can be as eye-catching as fine jewelry.
Fine jewelry, however, is typically made from platinum, gold, and fine silver. Costume jewelry is made from much less expensive base metals, such as stainless steel, copper, brass, and nickel, which are often a combination of other metals.
Metal Treatments
Because base metals can tarnish, corrode, or discolor, various treatments are applied to the base metal to keep it shiny.
Among the treatments are:
Electroplating. An electric current is passed through a metallic solution that causes the object(s) to be coated by the metal in the solution.
Gold or silver plating. Electroplating deposits a thin layer of silver or gold on a base metal.
Rhodium plating. Rhodium, a white metal, is coated onto jewelry to give it a shiny surface, which keeps the item from tarnishing. This process will wear off in time, but it can be redone.
This has just been a brief overview; learn more about the different metals in costume jewelry by reaching them through gem books.
Costume Jewelry Stones
Costume jewelry uses many different stones, such as brightly colored glass cabochon stones. These typically have a high dome, which often resembles the end of a bullet.
Foil-backed stones. Usually, each stone is the same color but with variations from the foil backing.
Torchworking, Lampwork, or flameworking. In this type of glasswork, a torch or lamp is used to melt the glass, which then can be formed by blowing and shaping with tools and hand movements.
Jelly Belly. A reference to a figure, usually an animal pin with a rounded middle made of polished Lucite.
Margarita, primarily used by Swarovski in costume jewelry. The name refers to the scalloped shape of the stone rather than the colors. These are drilled in the middle and often set with a decorative rhinestone-tipped pin inserted through the center.
Rivoli. This multi-faceted crystal rhinestone is faceted on the top and bottom, and manufactured by Swarovski.
Designers
Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Both designers were instrumental in creating costume jewelry that was acceptable in high fashion — and expected from the 1930s onward.
Miriam Haskell. With her creative partner Frank Hess, this American designer of costume jewelry created affordable pieces from 1920 through the 1960s.
Trifari jewelry. Among costume jewelry designers, Alfred Philippe is a revered name. Trifari produced highly desirable pieces from the 1930s through the 1960s.
Marcel Boucher. This costume jewelry influencer has roots in fine jewelry; he worked with Cartier as a model maker.
James Napier of the Napier Co. As styles changed in the 1920s, they were influenced by European jewelry. Napier introduced a Paris-inspired line in 1920, often sold in fine jewelry stores.
Sarah Coventry home jewelry parties. It is recognized as the oldest direct-selling jewelry company in the world.
Look (and research) Before You Toss
There are many more notable costume jewelry designers, but this brief overview will help buyers recognize pieces of value.
Stop and look at what you have or the jewelry your grand mum or mum wore when you were growing up. You might have a little treasure.