16/05/2015
TIPS AND TECHNIQUES
The Perfect Patch Pocket
If you've ever struggled to produce neat, identical patch pockets, try this simple factory-inspired technique for a perfect press every time.
BY MARCY TILTON
1. Press the top edge of the patch pocket down along the fold line. Topstitch the folded edge in place.
2. To get smooth, even edges and curves and make sure both pockets are exactly the same size, make a folding template from a manilla file folder cut to the finished size of the pocket. Cut a piece of tissue paper a bit larger than the pocket piece, allowing plenty of room to wrap it up around the pocket. Place the tissue on the ironing board with the pocket on top, wrong side up. Centre the folding template on top.
3. Fold the edges of the fabric and tissue over the template, gently pulling the tissue taut to mould the pocket around the edges. Use the tissue to adjust the fullness at the lower curves so that they crease smoothly and evenly.
4. Press firmly to make a neat, sharp edge all the way around the pocket. Use a clapper if needed to set in the crease.
5. Make a scrap paper template the same size as the fold-ing template for each pocket. Slip this into the pocket so the interior of the pocket is masked off and only the seam allowance is exposed. Cover your working surface with scrap paper, place the masked-off pocket on the paper, and spray the seam allowances with a fabric adhesive spray. Aim for a light, even coat.
6. Carefully remove the paper, position the pocket on the garment, matching up the markings, and gently finger press the pocket into position. Topstitch the pocket in place.
