SSM TEX LAB

03/09/2025

# SSM INFO: FABRIC – 25-26 #01
Yarn Defects analysis unraveled from Knitted Greige fabric

31/10/2024

21/10/2022

Today we are into 9th year

30/05/2022

# SSM INFO: YARN - 8

BEHAVIOR OF HIGH OIL CONTENT IN WORSTED YARN

Trials were taken on Nm 60 Black dyed yarn with Normal & High Oil Content – more undrafted long thick faults (150% to 400% - 4 to 16 cm) noticed in Uster clearer Optical yarn body

30/05/2022

# SSM INFO: FIBER - 10

How AFIS Nep Size & Nep Cnt/g parameters behaves in Cotton Spinning process (with 30 mm length cotton

28/05/2022

# SSM INFO: YARN - 7

RECOMMENDED QUALITY ALARM LIMITS FOR USTER QUANTUM CLEARERS

CVm ALARM SETTING

• Reference Length: 100 mtrs or 80 mtrs in case of suction ON
• Measurement: Continuous
• GR MV Monitoring: Upper & Lower Limit – both set to 0 (zero)
• SP Monitoring: Upper Limit range +24% to +28%
Lower Limit set -18%
• Action: Block
• Suction: Required only for Core Spun Yarn
or in some sensitive weft yarns
• Blocking: 1 per 1 KM

CV Alarms should be maintain between 0.1 to 0.5 per 100 KM

To keep CV alarm under control CV Group Standard deviation(s) should be maintained as per below given expected value ranges,

Expected Values For Combed = 0.28 to 0.32
Expected Values for Carded = 0.35 to 0.45

Irrespective of yarn count the above suggested values applicable for Capacitance yarn clearer.

28/05/2022

# SSM INFO: FIBER - 9

COTTON COLOR GRADE

The Color grade of a cotton sample is determined in two-filter colorimeter. This objective was developed by Nickerson and Hunter in the early 1940’s to check the USDA cotton grade standards.

The color of cotton fibers is defined by the Reflectance (Rd) and Yellowness (+b).

• Reflectance (Rd): This value expresses the whiteness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers.

• Yellowness (+b): This value expresses the yellowness of the light that is reflected by the cotton fibers.

• The Color Grade (CG): results from these two values base on USDA UPLAND color chart for Short / medium staple length cottons & USDA PIMA Color chart for Medium / Long Staple length cottons

23/05/2022

# SSM INFO: FABRIC - 1

CAUSES OF FABRIC BARRE

There are several causes for the stripping effect in the finished fabric known as Barre. This effect often occurs in knitted fabrics where color differences are a major problem, especially in single jerseys.

The knitting process only uses one yarn at time to form the fabric, whereas weaving always two yarns for fabric formation.

There are several factors can cause fabric Barre in the finished good. The major causes are,

• Fiber Property Variation contribute 70%
• Yarn Count Variation contribute 10%
• Twist Variation contribute 10%
• Yarn Hairiness contribute 10%

Certain fabric Barre defects can be caused by variation in yarn properties, such as yarn count, twist or yarn hairiness. Also it is important that the knitter uses the yarn according to consecutive shipping lots (same lots), not mixing yarn cones from different spinning periods. However the majority fabric Barre defects in knitted fabric are related to variations in the raw materials.

Three fiber properties can contribute the fabric Barre are,

• Micronaire
• Maturity
• Fluorescence

21/05/2022

# SSM INFO: YARN - 6

RECOMMENDED TEXTILE ALARM LIMITS FOR USTER QUANTUM CLEARERS

10 per 1 KM - NSA (Neps Short thick cuts Alarm)
5 per 1 KM - LA (Long Thick cuts Alarm)
5 per 1 KM - TA (Thin cuts Alarm)
3 per 1 KM - CA (Count cuts Alarm)
3 per 1 KM - CCA (Continuous Count cuts Alarm)
3 per 1 KM - PCA / PFA (Pearl Chain / Periodic Faults cuts Alarm)
10 per 1 KM - FA (Foreign Fiber cuts Alarm)
5 per 1 KM - PPA (Poly Propylene cuts Alarm)

• Irrespective of any count (whether coarser or finer) Textile alarm limits should be kept same.
• According to the Count and Quality requirements Channel settings to be kept and accordingly cuts will be there.
• Textile Alarm limits will help to identify rouge bobbins and for elimination.

20/05/2022

# SSM INFO: YARN - 5

TO MAINTAIN YARN CLEAR CUTS THE FOLLOWING POINTS TO BE REMEMBER,

18/05/2022

# SSM INFO: FIBER - 8

HVI Mode Vs ICC Mode Cotton Fiber Testing

HVI Mode Parameters
* Upper Half Mean Length (UHML)
* Mean Length (ML = UHML x UI)
* Uniformity Index (UI)
* Strength (HVI Mode)

ICC Mode Parameters
* 2.5% Span Length (2.5% SL)
* 50% Span Length (50% SL = 2.5%SL x UR)
* Uniformity Ratio (UT)
* Strength (ICC Mode)

Ratio of Fiber Properties measured in HVI mode Vs ICC Mode

Length Ratio: ML (HVI) / 50% SL (ICC) - expected 1.6 to 1.9
Strength Ratio: Strength (HVI) / Strength (ICC) - expected 1.15 to 1.28

Uniformity Index (HVI) Vs Uniformity Ratio (ICC)

Uniformity Index Range : 70 to 85
Uniformity Ratio Range : 40 to 55

18/05/2022

# SSM INFO: YARN - 4

COMPARISON OF 2 INSTRUMENT TEST RESULTS - EXAMPLE

Customer’s UT6 results of same cone (Nec 30 CCH & Nec 34 CCH) tested at our lab in UT5 and here with given below the details is as follows,

• All the parameters are over lap and hence there is no significant differences in the results of both the instruments