embroidery; ‘chikandozi’ is the art of embroidery and ‘chikandoz’ or ‘chikandozand’ is embroider. Now ‘chikan’ and ‘chikankari’ are vernacular words and are commonly used, in popular parlance. Chikankari is essentially an Iranian craft which was introduced into India by the legendery NUR JEHAN, daughter of the polished Iranian noble of the Mughal court Mirza Ghiyas Beg, entitled I’timad-ud-Daula
h, and Queen-consort of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir (son of Akbar the Great) (1605-1627 A.D.). Chikankari is executed by female artisans, specifically, young girls who have tender fingers and, of all, it is a typical nazuk (delicate) and ‘nafis’ (exquisite) feminine art of India. Initially it was introduced in the Harem quarters, from where, it spread, gradually, to become the elite ladies’ favourite choice. It was owing to its ‘nazakat (tenderness) and ‘nafasat’ (exquisiteness) that, after the decline and downfall of the Mughal Agra Delhi and Lahore, chikankari migrated to Lucknow where it found a congenial atmosphere for its ‘mizaj’ (temperament) and suitable workers and where it is being practised traditionally for about two centuries. Designing is the essence of ‘chikankari’. Mughal designs drew on geometrical, arabesque, animate, calligraphic and floral repertoires. But chikankari almost exclusively depends on stylized-floral designs, the like of which are depicted on the Tomb of I’timad-ud-Daulah at Agra (which was built by Nur Jehan, 1622-28), in countless varieties, in inlay, mosaic, stucco and painting, all in colour. These are Iranian embroidery designs and this mausoleum is the most exquisitely ornamented, and also the most colourful Mughal Tomb. It is incarnation of Iranian ornamentation on Indian soil. The technique of doing a chikan work is known as chikankari. Chikankari is a delicate and artistically done hand embroidery on a variety of textile fabrics like cotton, georgette, muslin, silk, net, chiffon and organza, etc. Chikan began as a type of white-on –white (or whitework embroidery). White thread is embroidered on cool, pastel shades of light muslin and cotton garments. Nowadays chikan embroidery is also done with coloured and silk threads in different colours to meet the recent fashion trends and keep chikankari trendy with fashion. Lucknow is the heart of the chikankari industry today and the variety is known as Lucknawi chikan. The piece begins with the use of one or more pattern blocks that are used to block-print a pattern on the ground fabric. The embroiderer then stitches the pattern, and the finished piece is carefully washed to remove all traces of the printed pattern. Process of Chikankari includes following steps:
Design
Engraving
Block printing
Embroidery
Washing & finishing
The patterns and effects created depend on the types of stitches and the thicknesses of the threads used in the embroidery. Some of the varieties of stitches used include backstitch, chainstitch and hemstitch. The result is an open work pattern, jali (lace) or shadow-work. Often the embroiderer creates mesh-like sections in the design by using a needle to separate threads in the ground fabric, and then working around the spaces. It consists of 36 different stitches, of which some of them are still in making. v Tepchi
v Bakhiya
v Hool
v Zanzeera
v Rahet
v Banarsi
v Khatau
v Phanda''
v Murri
v Jali
v Turpai
v Darzdari
v Pechani
v Bijli
v Ghaspatti
v Makra
v Kauri
v Hathkadi
v Banjkali
v Sazi
v Karan
v Kapkapi
v Madrazi
v Bulbul-chasm
v Taj Mahal
v Dekhat-bhuli
v Kangani
v Dhania-patti
v Rozan
v Meharki
v Chanapatti
v Baalda
v Jora
v Keel kangan
v Bhool-Bhulaiyan
v Sidhaul
