04/06/2026
Sometimes we’re so excited to get to the wave that we forget how we got here.
The walk to the water.
The feel of the reef beneath our feet.
The little things we notice when we’re surfing a spot for the first time, but sometimes forget to see at the breaks we know by heart.
The more we think we know a place, the less we notice.
And yet the best part of surfing isn’t always the wave.
Sometimes it’s everything surrounding it.
A reminder to slow down.
Look around.
It’s hard to care for something you don’t see.
