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How Sustainable Ideas are Shaking up Milan MenswearInspired by his grandfather, Italian designer Simon Cracker (real nam...
23/07/2022

How Sustainable Ideas are Shaking up Milan Menswear

Inspired by his grandfather, Italian designer Simon Cracker (real name Simon Botte) started his genderless fashion business in 2010, upcycling upholstery, curtains and vintage garments into eccentric luxury tailoring, dresses and printed separates. Twelve years on, he’s making his debut this month at Milan Men’s Fashion Week (Milano Moda Uomo, 14-17 June).

Upcycled menswear may be on the cusp of breakthrough in Italy — at last. “This is the first time we are seeing real acceptance in Italy, the first time we will have a showroom in Milan,” says Cracker, speaking from his studio in Cesena, Italy. “In Paris, with Japanese clients, it was much easier. They are a lot more accepting of upcycled fashion. This is a test because shops here still operate in the old way.”

Sustainable sourcing and material innovation have been front of mind across New York, London and Paris menswear for some years, led by award-winning menswear or co-ed brands such as Bode, Richard Malone and Bethany Williams. However, Milan has lagged behind and Cracker is one of a new generation of designers in the city for fashion week championing upcycling and material innovation.

Jonathan Anderson Announces the Winner of the 2022 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize in Seoul“It’s a big milestone,” Jonathan...
21/07/2022

Jonathan Anderson Announces the Winner of the 2022 Loewe Foundation Craft Prize in Seoul

“It’s a big milestone,” Jonathan Anderson tells me of the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize’s fifth edition, which was unveiled today in Seoul, South Korea. The Loewe creative director has just arrived in the city and is holding court in the library of the newly opened Seoul Museum of Craft Art (SeMoCA), the first dedicated to preserving Korean craftworks and the site of this year’s prize and exhibition. “From being at Loewe, it’s something I’m most proud of,” he adds. Just across the corridor, 30 exquisite pieces have been arranged in a neat loop. Photographs do not do them justice: Anderson makes note of an impossibly delicate basket woven from thin horsehair by Dahye Jeong, as well as a narrow vessel coiled freehand from strips of vegetable-tanned leather by Junsu Kim that looks like geological strata, a technique he had never seen before. They are works from two of seven Korean artists who made the short list.

Not that Anderson is surprised. “I’ve always loved Korea, and each year we have a lot of finalists from Korea,” he says. “What’s amazing is the protection of craft here and the level is so high. I want to hold [the Prize] in countries that appreciate craft on a level that is seen as an art form and not just a craft form.” Anderson and the jury seemed particularly pleased to appoint Dahye Jeong as this year’s winner. “It is just so magical,” he says of her work. “It holds a structure, but at the same time it’s incredibly light. There’s movement in it, but it’s very resilient.”

‘In the Black Fantastic’ Is the Must-See Exhibition of the SummerOn June 29, the Hayward Gallery in London hosted the op...
19/07/2022

‘In the Black Fantastic’ Is the Must-See Exhibition of the Summer

On June 29, the Hayward Gallery in London hosted the opening of the highly anticipated new exhibition “In the Black Fantastic.” Curated by Ekow Eshun, the writer, broadcaster, and chair of the Fourth Plinth Commissioning Group, it is the U.K.’s first exhibition dedicated to the work of Black artists who use the realm of the fantastical—including mythology, folklore, spiritual traditions, science fiction, and Afrofuturism—to explore racial injustices and identity. In Eshun’s own words, it’s “a way of acknowledging, a way of looking at the racialized everyday beyond the constraints that the Western imaginary has put around Black beings, Black personhood, and Black experiences.” He continues: “In a world where we are constantly, as Black people, subject to the fantasies and myths of others, one of the ways through for us is to embrace the fantastic. Not as an escape from reality, but as a way to explore further the possibilities and the imaginative reaches of our own experience of being. Essentially, ‘In the Black Fantastic’ is about saying there is no finite criteria or barrier to what being Black looks like.”

Below, the five things you need to know about what’s already being hailed as a landmark show.

Will This Brooklyn Museum Show Produce a Future Virgil Abloh?The centerpiece of the “Virgil Abloh: ‘Figures of Speech’” ...
17/07/2022

Will This Brooklyn Museum Show Produce a Future Virgil Abloh?

The centerpiece of the “Virgil Abloh: ‘Figures of Speech’” exhibition opening at the Brooklyn Museum this Friday is Social Sculpture, a wood cabin built for purpose in the center of the museum’s Great Hall where lessons, lectures, and other activations will take place. It’s bare save for a large speaker and an Inez and Vinoodh-lensed Louis Vuitton campaign image of a young Black child in a Wizard of Oz sweater from Abloh’s spring 2019 debut for the LVMH house. The photo occupies a window frame and the exhibition’s guest curator Antwaun Sargent likens it to a “Virgil self portrait.”

When an earlier version of this show ran at the Museum of Contemporary art in Chicago, Abloh’s hometown, the late designer said he hoped it would produce “at least seven more Virgil Ablohs in the future.”

The Awesome Audacity of Chase HallThree years ago, when Chase Hall was 25 and doing a residency at Skowhegan in Maine, h...
15/07/2022

The Awesome Audacity of Chase Hall

Three years ago, when Chase Hall was 25 and doing a residency at Skowhegan in Maine, he had a revelation about his art. “One of the teachers there, the artist Sondra Perry, and I had been having deep conversations every day,” he tells me, “and near the end of my time, she said, ‘You love Black history, but your mom is white. Where is that in the work?’ It kind of ruined me, but it also made me.”

Hall has a white, blond mother and a Black father. “Growing up, in my white family, I was the Black kid. In my Black family I was always the whitewashed Black kid, not fully Black,” he says. What he took from that conversation with Perry was that his biracial experience carried its own truth and authenticity, and would make his work different from that of the many artists bringing the Black body into contemporary art today. “Until someone stands up for mixedness, we’ll always feel less than,” Hall says. “I didn’t want my work to just be about Blackness. I wanted it to bring all of me into the picture.”

Pl***oy to build a ‘MetaMansion’ in the metaversePl***oy’s iconic party mansion will soon have a home in the digital rea...
11/07/2022

Pl***oy to build a ‘MetaMansion’ in the metaverse

Pl***oy’s iconic party mansion will soon have a home in the digital realm as the internationally renowned lifestyle brand is teaming with The Sandbox (SAND) to build Pl***oy’s “MetaMansion” inside the metaverse.

Indeed, the media business plans to debut a virtual counterpart of the real-life building on the metaverse platform known as The Sandbox as it continues to develop a strategy around what enthusiasts refer to as the next generation of the internet or the Web3.

Mini-games, social mixers, organized events, and recurring digital collectable releases will all be part of The MetaMansion, all of which will take inspiration from the over seventy years that the brand has spent publishing.

Russia has developed an analogue of SWIFT on the blockchainThe NTI Competence Center has presented a pilot version of an...
11/07/2022

Russia has developed an analogue of SWIFT on the blockchain

The NTI Competence Center has presented a pilot version of an analogue of SWIFT on the blockchain. The system is available for testing and can be used in Russian banks.

In tests, the system shows good results: the design speed reaches the transfer of more than 25 thousand messages per second on one node, while there is the possibility of further scaling.

For data transfer, a three-tier architecture is used, in which the distributed ledger is signed and distributed in a certain way.

It is impossible to disable the system in any country or bank, since each user has the same rights and opportunities, and a decentralized system allows you to create a safe environment for everyone.

Why the tiny house is perfect for nowJust as minimalism found its moment, now it's the turn of the tiny house movement. ...
04/07/2022

Why the tiny house is perfect for now

Just as minimalism found its moment, now it's the turn of the tiny house movement. Beverley D'Silva explores why, when it comes to dwellings, small is beautiful.

One of the most high-profile of the movement's many champions must be Elon Musk, the multibillionaire Tesla chief. Musk upped the tiny-house ante when he rented one in Boca Chica, Texas, while working on his SpaceX venture. "Feels more homey to live in a small house," he tweeted.

In the same way that minimalism and decluttering captured the zeitgeist as a counterpoint to conspicuous consumerism, so too has the tiny house movement found its moment. The idea – that having less space and stuff can create room in our lives for more important things – is an appealing one.

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