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THE PANDEMIC FOREVER CHANGED HOW WE THINK ABOUT THE FUTURENearly three years after COVID-19 swept the world, we’re still...
03/21/2023

THE PANDEMIC FOREVER CHANGED HOW WE THINK ABOUT THE FUTURE
Nearly three years after COVID-19 swept the world, we’re still left navigating a path to the next normal.

hen I think about the future,” Kyana Moghadam, 36, says over plates of lukewarm rigatoni at an overpriced Williamsburg café. “I go blank. There’s just nothing there. It’s a sense of horizonlessness.” She seemed almost surprised by the word.

But I knew exactly what she meant.

A Bay Area-based multimedia journalist and audio producer, Moghadam is a friend I consider successful by any metric. An activist, storyteller, and trained oral historian, she’s social, healthy, smart, stunning, and well-traveled. The sort of woman that seems, at least on social media, to have a thriving life, but there she was, describing herself as just sort of existing.

While she’d never fantasized about the white picket fence life, by her early 30s, she’d hit many of its traditional milestones: longtime boyfriend, close-knit community. She’d even managed to buy a house. But she felt like she was going through the motions. Then, just before the 2020 lockdown, her relationship ended, and she lost her father to su***de.
The domestic underpinnings of her life, however ambivalent she’d been about them, were gone. Originally from Iran, her father had died in the U.S. across the country from where she lived, but she couldn’t gather his remains until last year, or travel to Iran to return them to family. Her aloneness was exacerbated by a West Coast community made up of mostly nuclear families. “One person invited me into their pod,” she says. “And, you know, I sort of thought I’d have some offers.” She laughs. “But all my socials shut off. It was people with their partners and their kids, and their doors just shut. I didn’t even want a partner, but it felt like this is what you need to get through a time like this.”

Now, nearly three years into the pandemic, she’s hit with the sense that not only is her life as she knew it gone, but life as we knew it. “It feels like something that will never exist again in this world,” she says, not only of the domestic stability she’d taken for granted, but stability in any form. “In part, it’s the environment we’re in: climate change, the pandemic. Just how trashed so much stuff is. Because the pandemic took a couple years from us, it’s interesting to feel that way in your mid-30s. It’s too uncertain.”
I talked to others about horizonlessness. Almost everyone who felt it had experienced some personal loss or trauma that either dovetailed with or was exacerbated by the pandemic, and that the litany of concurrent or subsequent events—the ongoing existential threats of climate change, the overturning of Roe v. Wade, mass shootings, racist police killings, natural disasters abroad, and more—had caused them to feel disillusioned and destabilized in a lasting way. To arrive at a sort of nothing place.

Might that nothingness be a collective shield, I wondered, a defense against the overwhelming unknown of what next?

“Absolutely,” says Dr. Aditi Nerurkar, a physician at Harvard Medical School and an expert on stress and resilience. “Many of us were prepared for that short pandemic sprint. But the reason so many are feeling doom and gloom is because we didn’t prepare for the marathon,” she continued. “We went from an acute condition to a chronic one. That takes a cognitive leap that we were not trained to make.” The human brain, Nerurkar explains, is surprisingly resilient when it comes to short bursts of stress. But it needs to recover in between—not just emotionally, but biologically.
While many of us were prepared for the stress of the pandemic, burnout happens when stressful situations mount with little time for our brains to recover.
CHESNOT
Many areas of the brain are involved in thinking about the future, but when feeling stressed, we’re governed by the amygdala. “When the amygdala is stuck ‘on,’ that’s when burnout happens. The amygdala is all about survival. About the here and now. It’s our primal instinct,” adds Nerurkar. “Our recovery periods are being cut short because of one crisis after the other.” There's no energy to imagine the future when we can’t even process the present.

For Sara Ali, 27, a tech recruiter living in Honolulu, the onslaught of the last few years recalled the stress of living through 9/11 as a Muslim girl. Ali, whose family immigrated to the U.S. from Pakistan, was six years old when she came downstairs to see the towers collapse on TV. Her dad had Ali and her brother change into Old Navy T-shirts emblazoned with the American flag while he rushed out to buy more. Living in the States on visitor visas, the family had to return to Pakistan annually. After 9/11, they were constantly held and badgered by TSA and had their luggage searched, which gave Ali extreme nausea around travel. “I developed so much anxiety and fear for my brother and dad,” she says. “I was asked questions and couldn’t comprehend what was happening.”
“I had no hope for the future as a child. I didn’t want to be alive,” she says. Like many late millennials, Ali found refuge online and joy in memes and dark humor. “In my 20s, I’ve been blessed with some of the most incredible experiences of my life: getting married, traveling the world, going to every music festival I could’ve ever dreamed of—everything. But that has always been coupled with this sinking feeling in my gut of nausea or fear or guilt. That’s something that I’m working on eradicating.” In March 2020, she was 25 and life seemed to be on the upswing. She was finally making enough money to travel and go visit her family back in Pakistan. She was, for what felt like the first time, excited about the future.

“When COVID happened, I had some optimism about it, to be honest,” she says. “[I thought] maybe the world would rest and move away from what is so unnatural to us, which is what’s developed over the last 100 years. People working in rectangles under really bright light. Stuff like that.” But that optimism quickly dissipated as she grew sleepless and anxious not just about the virus, but the injustice and xenophobia it revealed. The sense of doom that colored her childhood was back. “When we started to realize how bad it was, I was like, oh my god, am I ever going to—and this is so privileged—be able to live these experiences that make me feel like there is hope for being alive? That sounds so dramatic, but I’m very dramatic, and that’s how I felt.”

Today, she and her friends lean into the fatalism that got Ali through her early traumatic experiences. “We probably enable each other in a negative way,” she says. “We’ll text each other: ‘Whatever, I’m probably gonna die in two days.’ We joke that if any of us have kids, they’ll be scalded by the sun. The ozone layer will be gone.” Her family isn’t a fan of her doomer humor, she says, demonstrating what Dr. Wendy Greenspun, a New York-based clinical psychologist and board member of the Climate Psychology Alliance of North America, sees as an increasingly common generational divide.

“I think that there’s some intergenerational stress now with younger people reporting that their parents don’t really understand their level of distress,” says Greenspun. “Or children of immigrants, where the immigrant parents are just focused on survival and making it in the world and having a better life, and the younger people are worried about their future. And so there’s a clash in the narratives or the focus on what feels most urgent or most important. That’s part of that social location. What are you most concerned about? What is impacting you the most?”

Solastalgia, or anxiety or malaise over climate change, is just the sort of mental marathon Nerurkar says our brains are not prepared for. Not unlike pandemic grief, it can trigger a sense of overwhelming uncertainty—it feels unending, bigger than any one of us. Part of the nascent, but fast-growing field of climate-aware therapists, Greenspun equates the job to working with clients who have chronic illnesses: it’s less about finding a cure and more about understanding, acceptance, and finding new ways to manage and even thrive. “It’s not a trauma that we just get over,” she says. “Usually, we’re working with people who are on the other side. There’s not another side of this.”
Even as she describes her view of the future as “dismal,” Ali is newly married, a stepmother to a three-year-old, and successful in her field. She pushes relentlessly toward professional and personal goals. To hear her tell it, it’s almost as if the goals themselves—not the outcomes they promise—keep her going. “Even if I’m dying on the inside, I’ll show up and interview my candidate and do my job. There’s an impending doom that if I don’t do this, I’ll slowly slip away,” she says. “What’re those Iggy Azalea lyrics? ‘No money, no family, sixteen in the middle of Miami.’ Immigrant families are all so afraid of failure.”
Ongoing anxiety about climate change can trigger a sense of overwhelming uncertainty, psychologists say.
MAXIM SHMAKOV
While Ali frames her stressors as common to the immigrant experience, there’s something very all-American, and generationally specific, about the chasm between what we were promised and what is happening around us in real-time.

“There’s this deeply rooted sense of getting to the next ‘thing,’” says Moghadam. “That life gets better there, or here, or with this, or that. It’s so hard to let go of. But I’m finding that I need things outside of work that are uniquely mine to keep me going, which is the opposite of how I felt in the past.”

After 10 years of climbing the journalistic ladder, she no longer subscribes to the idea of an “arrival” or endpoint. “After having been a part of so many systems, after building systems...that illusion of getting to the next thing, this ledge, is just gone. For me, it started with my dad. And for others, with the pandemic. You realize that it can all be taken away. That’s what loss does.”

For Jamié Rodríguez, 31, individual and collective losses over the last few years have crystallized into a new form of hope, albeit one tempered by caution. “Whether it be climate crises, policies, predatory lending, the ways that larger events and issues have affected my future, it’s made me precautious and calculated as to how I move toward it.”

An Indigenous Colombian, Mexican, Two-Spirit poet and scholar living in Los Angeles’ Boyle Heights neighborhood, Rodríguez was born the eldest daughter in a Latino family, and, like Ali and Moghadam, was driven to achieve. A first-generation high school graduate, they trekked to the base of Mt. Everest at 22 years old and are currently pursuing an MA in Latin American studies at California State University, Los Angeles.

"Collective experience is probably one of the most important tools we have to fight the sense of nihilism and hopelessness.”

But they’ve also struggled with suicidal ideation and the feeling that the future wasn’t made for them—despair predicated by their desire to live freely inside a system hostile to q***r and trans BIPOC people. The ongoing stress of trying not to simply exist, but thrive, impacted their mental health. “In a lot of ways, it’s because I was trying to build a future for myself,” says Rodríguez, who lives with bipolar II disorder. “Under capitalism, I had to work so hard. There are intense mental health ramifications for BIPOC people in trying to think about a future. There’s reasons for me not being able to see my future.”

Through committing to collective growth and delving into their ancestral lineage of indigenous Mexican curanderas/x/e, or native healers, Rodríguez has reformed the future as a site of resistance and possibility. “Because I didn’t always feel I had a future guaranteed, it also didn’t feel prescribed. There’s a level of freedom for me,” they say. “When I think of the future, I can’t help but think of the past…and I realized that, for me, a Brown, trans, Two-Spirit person, everything I do is sacred. The losses are lessons and the wins are for my community,” they say.

Greenspun has seen clients experience something like what Rodríguez describes—a doubling down on the future, an increased ferocity of imagination in the face of bottomless, and in some cases, nameless loss. Clinicians call it post-traumatic growth, a transformational resilience that can develop after trauma. “I’ve had clients that end up changing careers from high-powered tech to green energy,” she says. “Going from being an actor to being a community gardener. There’s all kinds of ways that people start to change.”

“Collective experience is probably one of the most important tools we have to fight the sense of nihilism and hopelessness,” says Greenspun. “Individualism, in some ways, is at the heart of the difficulty, because we’ve been so disconnected from our sense of how we’re part of something bigger and that our individual actions impact other people.”

Still, she often has to prompt them to share environmental worries during sessions. “It’s sort of like, ‘Well, I’m supposed to talk about my individual problems, right?’ It’s so big. I find if I just ask clients if they have concerns about the future, or there’s a period of hot weather, and I say, ‘Does that make you think about climate change? And what are your feelings about it?’ they unleash a whole lot of distress.”

IBut they’ve also struggled with suicidal ideation and the feeling that the future wasn’t made for them—despair predicated by their desire to live freely inside a system hostile to q***r and trans BIPOC people. The ongoing stress of trying not to simply exist, but thrive, impacted their mental health. “In a lot of ways, it’s because I was trying to build a future for myself,” says Rodríguez, who lives with bipolar II disorder. “Under capitalism, I had to work so hard. There are intense mental health ramifications for BIPOC people in trying to think about a future. There’s reasons for me not being able to see my future.”

Through committing to collective growth and delving into their ancestral lineage of indigenous Mexican curanderas/x/e, or native healers, Rodríguez has reformed the future as a site of resistance and possibility. “Because I didn’t always feel I had a future guaranteed, it also didn’t feel prescribed. There’s a level of freedom for me,” they say. “When I think of the future, I can’t help but think of the past…and I realized that, for me, a Brown, trans, Two-Spirit person, everything I do is sacred. The losses are lessons and the wins are for my community,” they say.

Greenspun has seen clients experience something like what Rodríguez describes—a doubling down on the future, an increased ferocity of imagination in the face of bottomless, and in some cases, nameless loss. Clinicians call it post-traumatic growth, a transformational resilience that can develop after trauma. “I’ve had clients that end up changing careers from high-powered tech to green energy,” she says. “Going from being an actor to being a community gardener. There’s all kinds of ways that people start to change.”

“Collective experience is probably one of the most important tools we have to fight the sense of nihilism and hopelessness,” says Greenspun. “Individualism, in some ways, is at the heart of the difficulty, because we’ve been so disconnected from our sense of how we’re part of something bigger and that our individual actions impact other people.”

Still, she often has to prompt them to share environmental worries during sessions. “It’s sort of like, ‘Well, I’m supposed to talk about my individual problems, right?’ It’s so big. I find if I just ask clients if they have concerns about the future, or there’s a period of hot weather, and I say, ‘Does that make you think about climate change? And what are your feelings about it?’ they unleash a whole lot of distress.”

Ink Stains Stainless Steel Travel Mug - Accessories by Hyper Wear
03/20/2023

Ink Stains Stainless Steel Travel Mug - Accessories by Hyper Wear

Is the Beauty Industry Finally Playing Fair With Black-Owned Brands?Not quite—but there’s one collective making major mo...
03/20/2023

Is the Beauty Industry Finally Playing Fair With Black-Owned Brands?
Not quite—but there’s one collective making major moves to level out the playing field.

Beauty and grooming rituals have long been a part of the Black experience. Historically, everything from hairstyling to body art has represented where we come from and to which community we belonged.

But then we fast forward to the mid to late 20th century, when many of our beauty choices—while still widely culturally driven—were heavily influenced by the need to conform to white standards of beauty. Not necessarily because we didn’t appreciate our natural features, but because it was a means of survival in the corporate workforce, and a way to thrive in broader society. The only problem? There was a limited supply of beauty products made for our unique needs.

Depending on location, many of our go-to's weren’t even available at mass retailers. And if they were, these goods were often placed in a dark, dusty corner—clearly segregated from what were considered mainstream products. However, beginning in the 2010s, with the second wave of the natural hair movement pushing forward, Black people across the board started to reclaim the beauty narrative. We began to let go of the idea that we needed to conform. Instead, we looked at beauty as a means of gaining autonomy and celebrating our unique features. And the wider industry took notice.
Haircare brands like Mielle Organics and Camille Rose launched during this decade, with makeup lines like The Lip Bar following, skincare like 54 Thrones, and Hyper Skin near the end of the 2010s. The Black beauty boom had arrived. And while consumers were quick to revel in the new bounty of options, founders faced an uphill battle to thrive on an equal playing field to their white counterparts—and still do.

A June 2022 study conducted by McKinsey & Company found that Black-owned or -founded brands only made up 2.5% percent of the revenue of the $60 billion beauty industry in the U.S. Yet Black consumers were “responsible for 11.1% of total beauty spending.” Much of this imbalance was because the wider industry does not help create an equitable environment for Black entrepreneurs to not only get started, but also grow their businesses in order to create new employment opportunities and close the wealth gap in the Black community.
But luckily, things are slowly starting to shift.

In 2021, beauty and business maven Kendra Bracken-Ferguson partnered with investor and entrepreneur Lisa Stone to create the BrainTrust Founders Studio (BTFS), an investment community that incubates new Black-owned beauty and wellness brands, while helping existing founders to scale and grow their businesses. The team is dedicated to helping founders, both new and seasoned, find investment opportunities while also providing their own funding.

“BTFS is now the largest membership-based platform dedicated to Black founders of beauty and wellness companies,” Bracken-Ferguson shares with ELLE.com. “With our deep expertise in creating consumer products, operating tech-enabled platforms, and long-time relationships throughout the industry, we are harnessing the value of dozens of ecosystem partners and advisors to accelerate the growth of Black beauty and wellness founders at all stages of their journey from start, growth to acceleration.”
With two years under its belt, BTFS just released its first Economic Advancement Report, detailing new full-time jobs created through the brands it supports, as well as sales increases and venture capital raised.

From 2022 to 2023, the BTFS went from a 26-founder membership, with a reported $26.6 million in product sales, to 116 members, with revenues of over $100 million. In addition, venture capital funds raised increased from $2,540,025 to $43,937,524 (concentrated in nine companies that have raised $40,227,524, according to the report). And when it comes to employment growth, excluding freelance, contract, and part-time positions, brands have gone from creating 19 full-time jobs in 2022 to 116 in 2023.
So how do we take things to the next level? According to Stone, it’s working to ensure Black-owned brands blend with the wider mainstream industry, rather than being seen as “the other,” or something only made for one demographic. But it seems like the beauty world is already on the right track.

“The single most important thing we can do is shatter the stereotype that Black founders only create products for Black consumers,” Stone explains. “Black founders are creating gorgeous beauty and wellness products for all of us. We cannot reveal individual company data, but with the collective social media following of BrainTrust Founders Studio founders [comprising 40.96% Black consumers, 30.45% white, 21.42% Asian, and 7.17% Hispanic], it’s reflective of the customer base buying individual brands.”

With collectives like BTFS, the success of existing and future Black beauty founders is looking bright. But the journey can be one hell of a ride—and we want to know all about it. That’s why we spoke with nine founders across eight BTFS-backed brands to get real about everything from the aftermath of the 2020 racial reckoning and whether or not it made a lasting impact, to building capital, and the advice they have for up-and-coming entrepreneurs.

Their stories, ahead.

Lupine Gradient Sport Shorts by HYPER WEAR
03/20/2023

Lupine Gradient Sport Shorts by HYPER WEAR

BRANDS ARE GOING BACK TO BASICSRather than reinventing the fashion wheel, designers are returning to their labels’ roots...
03/20/2023

BRANDS ARE GOING BACK TO BASICS
Rather than reinventing the fashion wheel, designers are returning to their labels’ roots.

I'm in need of a sartorial reset. Apparently, so is the rest of the fashion world. Yes, the runways are dotted with spectacles and performances worthy of endless social media posts. And yes, maximalism may always be in the trend rotation. But then there’s the other end of the spectrum, where wardrobe basics and minimalism reign supreme. Even Gucci—the brand known for its more-is-more designs—offered what felt like a breath of fresh air when models walked down the runway in brown blazers, oxford shirts, and loose-fitting jeans for fall/winter 2023. It became clear that the house is in its post-Alessandro Michele era. Perhaps the rest of us are, too.
There’s a scene from the 2004 film Uptown Girls where a young Dakota Fanning quotes dancer Mikhail Baryshnikov: “Fundamentals are the building blocks of fun.” It may not have been the most pivotal moment of the movie, but it does ring true for many things. And, rather than wiping the slate clean or attempting to reinvent the wheel, the fashion industry appears to be revisiting its own fundamentals to pave the way toward something new.
“Right now, we feel that there is a focus on the foundational wardrobe and pieces that are essential but also free, emotional, and covetable,” Joyce Lee, Madewell’s senior vice president of design, shared with me in an email. The brand—known for its denim and other uncomplicated pieces like its bestselling Whisper cotton T-shirts—recently launched a collection, dubbed “The New Classics,” of wardrobe staples including a trench coat, a crisp button-down shirt, a tailored suit, and, of course, jeans. According to Lee, the collection is Madewell’s interpretation of the foundational wardrobe, designed to be the starting point for your closet as you develop your personal style. Lucky for us, this falls right in line with the nouveau normcore trend for spring and the best fall 2023 fashion trends from the runways.
It’s not uncommon to envision Madewell with a bohemian flair. Breezy printed summer dresses, relaxed leather bags, and whimsical gold-plated jewelry are all part of the brand’s offerings. However, with ties to its sister brand J.Crew, Madewell’s origins also lie in the world of prep. One look at The New Classics campaign and blog posts from the 2010s—which feature lookbook images of neutral knits and skinny jeans with chambray shirts—it looks like Madewell has started to make its way back. Or, at the very least, back towards its minimalist beginnings.
Other labels are revisiting their heritages, too. At Kate Spade New York’s fall 2023 presentation during New York Fashion Week, I spoke with designers Tom Mora and Jennifer Lyu, the head of ready-to-wear and lifestyle and the head of leather goods and accessories, respectively, about the choice to bring back the Sam bag, which originally launched in 1993 as one of the label’s inaugural designs. “We like to say, ‘In order to move forward, you look back a little bit, and so the Sam bag was one of our key elements,” Mora offered. He also mentioned that 2023 marks the brand’s 30th anniversary, and the boxy leather tote is a key part of the collection. Additionally, the design duo also launched Kate Spade Green with Pantone, a vibrant shade based on the brand’s signature hue, with slight modern tweaks.
While referencing Kate Spade’s legacy, Mora and Lyu also see their latest showing as a fresh start. “This collection was a metaphor for the idea of fall being a blank canvas, the beginning of something new; endless possibilities,” Mora explained. As for where the two see the brand going in the coming years, they both find that Kate Spade New York currently resonates as a brand for all ages. “We’re really seeing this as the jumping off point; being the brand that not only celebrates uniqueness and individuality....It feels like a pivotal moment for us.”
It’s no secret that fashion often repeats itself—and there’s no doubt the industry likes to reimagine old things as new. But what exactly happens when a brand brings its audience a blast from the past? Well, just look at Banana Republic—which was once known as Banana Republic Travel & Safari Clothing Company.
Whether or not you’ve been paying attention since the workwear brand rebranded in March 2021, odds are you’ve noticed a change in the pieces it’s been putting out—one that lends itself to its start in the world of travel, specifically exploration and adventure. “We’re leveraging our history as a travel brand to create a distinctive BR look that is rich in texture and style with a focus on quality and innovation,” said Nicole Wiesmann, Banana Republic’s vice president of design. “Our roots in utility with a tailored refinement create this ‘BR look,’ which pairs premium skins, fabrics, and fibers for a sense of rugged luxury.”
Wiesmann shares that the design process starts with Banana Republic archival pieces and catalogs, as well as sourced vintage pieces. “For our core collection, we may take an idea and modernize it through cut and make or fabric, while for our heritage collection, it is truly a replica of archival pieces,” she said. “We keep the integrity of those pieces by not altering fit and by trying to find fabrics that are super close to the original.” The result? A brand with pieces that have shoppers (myself included) alerting others—on TikTok and elsewhere—to discuss how refreshingly elevated everything feels.
Another notable brand to tap into its archive is J.Crew. Earlier this month, womenswear director Olympia Gayot shared a post on Instagram announcing the return of its beloved Rollneck Sweater, which first launched in the late ’80s, quoting old catalog copy with one additional phrase: “And she’s back.” Through her posts and other statements, Gayot makes it very clear that flipping through the brand’s catalogs from years past and embracing J.Crew’s heritage has been a major influence on her designs.
While there are always new collections each season, fashion isn’t necessarily about building from scratch. Sometimes, it’s about making what was once considered old new again. When I spoke with the Kate Spade team, Lyu framed it as a new challenge. “When we remake things, whether it’s a color or a bag, there are some elements that you really want to maintain and spotlight what you want to push and pull that lever on,” she said. Yes, these designers are undoubtedly putting their finishing touches on every piece—including the ones that have been recreated for today—but they’re also recognizing the greats before them.
No—you won’t be sporting exact copies of looks from the ’80s, ’90s, or even early 2000s when you wear these relaunched or reimagined staples today. Instead, you’ll be going back to the roots. So bust out that Kate Spade bag from middle school, because what’s old is almost always new again.

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