08/23/2026
There are a number of social media videos recently showing alterationists cutting dress hems on unpadded mannequins. This is a red flag if they did not mark/note vertical measurements front, back, and sides first.
Why?
Because the mannequins we see in these images have not been padded to match the client’s tissue distribution.
What do I mean by that?
Look at the screen grab from Instagram user . (I added the red lines.) It shows two people who have the same hip circumference, but different body shapes. The woman on the left will need a slightly longer hem in the front to accommodate a larger front half. The woman on the right will need a slightly longer hem in the back because she has more pronounced glutes. One of these ladies has posterior pelvic tilt to account for. One of them may stand with one hip or shoulder higher than the other, which would need a longer hem on that side.
A factory dress form is not shaped like either of these women, even if it measures the same circumference. It has symmetrical front, back, and sides, with neutral pelvic tilt. To “pad” a mannequin means to literally add padding. We often use a spandex cover and stuff it with quilt batting or pre-formed foam pads at the bust, belly, hips, etc. based on what the client’s body actually looks like.
Neither of the hems for these women can be properly marked or cut on an unpadded mannequin using the floor, a platform, or a laser level. Those are all a starting point if you have a lot to remove before marking/pinning, or need to let the bias relax after cutting.
In all of these images, the only one that seems to be done correctly on an unpadded dress form is , who you can see has used pins to mark the length, assuming it was pinned on the client first.
This post isn’t to call out or shame any creator whose image I used. If they are successful in their business, and their clients are happy, great! But in order to pay ourselves a living wage, maintain this trade as a true profession, and build a clientele who trusts us wholeheartedly with their garment investment, we should to put in the effort to truly customize each item to our client.