10/22/2021
I had a great interview with 🤙🏻💕here is the highlight & the most memorable moment of my surf journey!😍🤙🏻🌊🏄🏻♀️
I grew up in Iran with a great love for the Ocean and the sea, but I never imagined myself surfing! It wasn't until a year ago, a few months into the Pandemic, that I fell in love with surfing. The silver lining of the Pandemic was the flexibility to surf when I wanted, especially during high tide and great swells. Going out two or three times a week with my friends was a blast, and I was riding high. But then, just as I was really feeling stoked with my new and improved surf life, I had a terrible accident: I almost drowned. I am so lucky that my friend Cleo was close by and saved my life.
My love for surfing and my firm determination not to let the accident deter me from my passion helped me get back into the water and stand up on my board. How did I overcome my fears and the trauma of facing death in the throes of Mother Ocean? I started a ten-day surf challenge. The idea was to go out into the water every day, paddling, popping up, turtle roll, etc., knowing I would wipeout. My goal was to desensitize myself from the trauma. On the 9th day, when the most beautiful Giant Wave appeared, I had the most memorable surfing moment of my life.
I was in the lineup with my friend, Lily. I saw a wave coming, and I wanted it. Just as I started paddling, my friend screamed at me, "Oh sh*t, Susie." She thought the wave was way too big for me. But I didn't. I knew that was MY wave, and I wasn't afraid. I turned my board quickly and started to paddle. I was charging down the wave when I felt the push, and guess what? I had an air take-off!!! OMG! I was screaming and cheering as the wave carried me. I was smiling so big, and yet I was nervous at the same time. Was I going to fall? No way! I put everything I'd learned thus far about surfing into action, and believe it or not I controlled my board in a right-left direction all the way to the shore.
I'll cherish that moment forever and always smile when I remember my friend shouting, "Oh sh*t Susie!"
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