09/11/2026
Pattern in Wedding Gowns: When the Fabric Does The Talking
09.11.26
Fashion Wisdom Wisdom
Lily Markovski of Lilli Marcs Couture Bridal Gowns has been making wedding gowns for over twenty years. For The Pattern Issue, she walks us through lace, embroidery, beading and texture, and the moment in a fitting she loves most.
I’ve been making wedding gowns for over twenty years, and the fabric is still the part I get most excited about. A bride usually comes in talking about shape. Strapless or sleeves, fitted or full. But once she starts touching the lace and the silks, the conversation changes.
In wedding gowns, pattern is the lace, the embroidery, the beading and the texture of the fabric itself. That’s what gives a gown its character.
Know your laces
Most of our brides start with lace. Chantilly is soft and fine, lovely for a romantic, flowing dress. Alençon has a corded edge around each motif, so it looks a bit more defined and classic. Guipure is heavier with no net behind it, and it suits a simpler, more modern shape.
How the lace is placed makes a big difference too. A fully lace bodice looks very different to a few motifs cut out and scattered over tulle. We import our silks and laces from Europe, and I always tell brides to come in and feel them. You can’t judge lace from a photo.
Look beyond lace
This is where made-to-measure really comes into it, because you can add things that mean something to you. Initials and the wedding date stitched inside the bodice. A flower that matches the bouquet. A motif taken from mum’s old gown. Nobody else needs to know it’s there.
With beading, a little in the right place looks better than a lot everywhere. Where you put it changes how the dress sits on you, so we work that out in fittings.
If lace isn’t for you, texture can do the same job. Mikado holds its shape and has a soft sheen. Crepe drapes close to the body. Layers of tulle, pleating or a few fabric flowers give a plain gown some depth, and it shows up beautifully in photos.
Let one feature lead
Think about where you’re getting married and what time of day. Garden weddings suit lighter lace, while a ballroom at night can take heavier silk and more sparkle. Then pick one feature you love and let that lead. If the bodice is beaded, keep the skirt simple, and the other way around.
And move around in your fittings. Sit, walk, have a dance. Some fabrics look gorgeous on the hanger and feel stiff once you’re in them.
You can also carry the gown’s lace onto your veil, or pick up a detail on the bridesmaids’ dresses or mum’s outfit. It ties everything together without everyone looking matched.
Try something you wouldn’t normally pick
My best advice is to try a few things you wouldn’t normally pick. A lot of brides end up in something quite different to what they walked in imagining.
When a new bride walks in wanting a specific look, then tries one of our gowns and falls in love with the ideas and changes we can make to create her own unique look, that is the moment her face lights up.
About the author: A wedding gown is one of the most special items a bride-to-be will choose in her lifetime, so the materials and experience Lilli Marcs offers are nothing short of magical. Whether you like one of our exquisite designs, or have something else in mind, designer Lily Markovski will create the gown of your dreams. Meet her via her website of follow her on Instagram.
Images by Daniel Kukec Photography
BY
lillimarcs
The Pattern Issue
We’re celebrating weddings full of personality! From tartan suits and patterned veils to striking stationery or show-stopping cakes, see how patterns tell your story.
This issue is all about designs that pop and make your day unforgettable.
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